Weekend Dining: The Three Fishes At Mitton

Lancastrian Nigel Haworth is creating a new gastronomic experience at the Three Fishes in Mitton, a small village in the heart of the Ribble Valley. He’s conquered Gastro cuisine and fine dining and is now opting for something in the middle. It is clear from talking to this friendly and modest chef that he is offering a culinary experience based on his mantra: farm-to-fork.

Haworth’s long-held dream was to open a food-focused pub based on sustainable principles. The view from the car park looks across the Ribble Valley and as one’s eyes focus back to the immediate surroundings there are clues to how Haworth is going to achieve his vision.

A polytunnel can be seen around a specially created main growing area to help crops that need more warmth and sunlight.

“We are growing different vegetables and fruits for maximum flavour and minimum impact on the land,” he says.

As we chat it is obvious, he is committed to his vision. He is authentic, straightforward, knowledgeable, and enthusiastic about sustainability.

The restaurant has only been open 10 weeks and already there’s a buzz as diners coming for lunch are given a warm welcome by the front of house team. Attention to detail is high on the agenda as Haworth chats about the project. It’s not just looking at the ingredients, he is trying to be as self-contained as possible.

Here is a chef who understands there is an audience that wants to be taken on a journey through a menu and savour and enjoy a meal. So, thank goodness a balanced menu trumps the ridiculous tasting menus that some restaurants choose to offer.

Taste is important and there is an emphasis on a plant-based menu and a move away from cooking with butters and creams that often interfere with taste and if a dairy ingredient is needed, he may well use oat milk.

Haworth is keen to get to the kitchen as the restaurant is filling up. He leaves me in the capable hands of the maître d’ and bartender who demonstrate an all-round knowledge, whether it be articulating Haworth’s vision, details about the menu or a comprehensive understanding of the gins and wines. I forgot to introduce Spirit of Yorkshire whisky to them, it is distilled on the similar sustainability principles: field-to-bottle.

The maître d’ and sommelier helpfully selected and paired a couple of wines to have with each course from a rather good wine list. A quick glance highlights several excellent choices and variety with some fine English samples. The Brut, from the Wiston Estate in Sussex more than surprised me at its freshness; one where the description was apt: a rich complex maturity. Definitely a fizz to try.

Today’s menu begins with lightly baked cheese rolls with a nod towards a healthier option as it is accompanied with whey butter. There is just a sprinkling of sea salt. The crispiness of the cheese topping on the roll brings out the flavour. This is followed by a langoustine and scallop dish consisting of ravioli, shellfish sauce, salted chicory and seaweed with an optional supplement of Oscietra caviar (£10). Each of the individual components come together working separately and as an ensemble nothing is overpowering. The shellfish sauce is balanced, and the salted chicory adds an earthiness to the dish.

As part of Haworth’s menu, the next course is a rather satisfying salsify tempura, morels and rice. Salsify has a delicate taste and is slightly sweet. The tempura is fresh and crispy. The dish, as with all the courses, presents different textures. The morels are cooked in their own juices creating a stock and then reduced to create a consommé. There is a richness and intensity to this dish that is not overwhelming.

A red venison loin with tamarind sauce, yellow beets, pickle, cavolo nero, creamed shallots and thyme is presented. Again, there looks to be several flavours but everything Haworth does is subtle. Just when you thought a flavour had been nailed there is another surprise.
The locally sourced venison was cooked perfectly, and the accompaniments offered up a kaleidoscope of colour and a medley of flavours. The sweetness of the yellow beet complemented the creamed shallots that melted in the mouth. I didn’t think there could have been so much taste. Haworth uses Japanese charcoal to barbeque the beetroot. Up to now the trio of dishes have been superbly executed. In his cooking Haworth demonstrates in these three courses a deep understanding of how flavours work, balance and importantly harmonise together on the plate. The perfect example so far is the salsify.

Just when I thought I had nailed a flavour I was surprised how another one came through. The chemistry of Haworth’s cooking uses acidity and sweetness blended to work in a way that hits the palette and creates something oozing delicate seasonal piquancy.

Another optional course (£15) is a selection of British and Irish cheeses from Settle’s Courtyard Dairy, one of the best in the area. The maître d’ and sommelier came into her own again. Not only was she fully versed in describing the cheeses, more importantly she persuaded me to try a dessert wine an Auslese Hans Tschida Neusiedlersee from Austria (2020). It was an education. That a bright and refreshing wine with mandarin orange, rose jelly baked apple and marzipan could accompany cheese was a revelation. It worked as an alternative to port.

The final course was a passionfruit & banana souffle served with coconut ice cream and if the previous dishes were flavoursome this one was no exception, instantaneously creating a gastronomic high. The moment the spoon touched the top of the souffle the fulsome, piercing flavour and smell of the passionfruit radiated across all the senses. It was light and fluffy and the Muscat de Beaumes de Venise, Domaines Bernadins 2020 dessert wine from the Rhone Valley brimming with apricots, peaches honey and raisins once again complemented this wonderful dish.

Over coffee a miniature Eccles cake appeared as a salute to the red rose county.

Here in Mitton is one of the Ribble Valley’s newest restaurants and an important one, where the chef heads up a team that shares his passionate sense for creating a plant-based sustainable menu.