It’s all unassuming. In fact, you could quite easily walk by York’s The Whippet Inn and not realise what you were missing out on within the walls of the Grade II-listed Victorian building.

Foodies who like fine dining mixed with a hint of quirkiness, a splash of comfortable surroundings, and topped off with a sprinkling of a friendly, welcoming experience should definitely make their way along North Street.

James, who has only recently joined the team, understands that eating out is not just about the food—important as it is. He tells me over an excellently prepared G&T that it’s all the trimmings that make an occasion, whether it be celebratory, spur of the moment, or a regular weekly date.

Owner Martin Bridge understands that with his eye for detail. Since the 2013 refurbishment where The Yorkshire Hussar was transmuted into the present establishment, he has overseen a trendy and modish décor set against open brickwork that adds to the overall ambience. Before you enter the main dining area, there are two rooms on either side of the entrance. A VIP dining room and a space to have your pre-prandial While there, take a look at the wallpaper, all is not what it seems. Along with the name, it is part of the quintessential quirkiness that Bridge enjoys.

He has also listened to the suggestions of friends and family, and in doing so, he has created something a little different from what’s on offer at the high-street chains. It has not been without a little consternation since he declared The Whippet Inn was for adults only—well, children over the age of 14. But you will not find any annoyance from me. I get irritated with parents who take their kids to restaurants, then leave them to create noise and run around without any spatial awareness on the impact it has on other diners.

As to the food, The Whippet Inn caters to all tastes and offers a lovely curated menu featuring primarily beef, along with a wonderful selection of fish dishes.

The Nibbles Board was a treat and made for the perfect selection to enjoy sitting chatting with friends and putting the world to rights whilst savouring the stunning Nocellara olives, blistered Padron Peppers with sea salt, crispy fried cornichon with sweet chilli sauce, and ‘Dough Bakery’ Focaccia with extra virgin olive oil and balsamic vinegar. They are all rather moreish. The olives were fleshy, fresh, and delicious, accompanying the apéritif. The lightly fried cornichons have a crunch, and the peppers just the right sprinkling of salt.

Executive Chef Ben enthusiastically recites the sustainability elements of the menu, and his sourcing policy is built around ensuring he is only buying the best produce; for most ingredients, he is tracking local ingredients. The Whippet’s butchers source meat from across the UK, Finland, and Spain. The Finnish Ayrshire Heifer cattle graze on wide-stretched grass fields. The beef has won many gold awards. You will also find beef from the Spanish Galician blonde cattle. It is all part of what Ben calls the “ecological credentials” of The Whippet, “ethically sound with an ethical ecosystem and, of course, incomparable flavours.

I am here to try the beef, as The Whippet has recently installed purpose-built dry-ageing cabinets, two of which are on display to diners, and the meats age for 70 days but also 92 days and are served on the bone.

The reason, Ben tells me, is that on-site ageing has allowed him and his team to age choice pieces of beef for their more discerning guests. “It enhances the beef’s natural richness, lending a distinct nutty, buttery flavour. The process also concentrates the natural juices within the meat, creating outstanding succulent beef, resulting in a melt-in-your-mouth experience.”

A new specialised beef cuts menu will give a chef’s description of each available dish on its separate dry-aged beef menu, guiding customers on their culinary journey. Of course, the chefs need to understand the processes. Ben says his team is made of experts who are appreciative of the different elements behind the preparation techniques.

The 70+-day-aged beef I am about to try is whisky-aged UK 9-year-old ex-dairy Friesian, ribeye. For the future, Ben is is preparing one aged with vanilla rum. It doesn’t come with the customary triple-fried chips, as this executive chef says he believes the beef deserves something special.

The beef is pan-fried in butter and served with crispy potato pave, anise squash puree, salt-baked beetroot in beef jus, crispy French shallots, aged beef fat and horseradish emulsion, radicchio dressed in white balsamic, and red mustard served medium-rare.

The flavours are subtle, the whisky influence delicate, and the textures wonderful, especially the pave. I prefer it to dauphinoise. The flavoursome meat is tender, made, of course, by its natural fat. The anise flavour of the sweet potato complements the gorgeously salt-baked beetroot. The horseradish is fleeting. Let the flavours mingle in the mouth. Each bite is delectable.

The drinks menu is extensive, and there is much to enjoy, including a large selection of gins and cocktails. I opted for a French merlot, and once again, sustainability is the key. The corks are sent back to the supplier, where they are compressed.


There was enough space left for the cheese board with six cheeses, biscuits, and fruit cake, and my colleague had the honey and vanilla panna cotta with toasted pistachio-gin-soaked strawberries, lavender meringue, and violas. Again, subtlety was the key with the flavours, and it was hard to choose from an array of wonderful desserts.

The whole experience, from entrance to exit, was one of nuanced subtlety. From the team to the food, everything had a personality and an ambience that can be enjoyed at whatever time of day you chose to sit down and eat.