In an age where restaurant reviews are increasingly reduced to fleeting Instagram stories and ephemeral TikTok clips, the art of considered food criticism risks being lost to the immediacy of social media influence. I confess to a certain scepticism about the modern influencer phenomenon—that band of social media personalities who report vicariously about products and trends, their transitory comments vanishing as quickly as they appear, leaving little substance or meaningful context in their wake.

This is precisely why genuine food reviewing demands more than a momentary snapshot captured in a few hurried seconds. The craft requires a writer to weave together the architecture of a space, the subtleties of ambience, the nuances of service, and the complexity of cuisine—both objectively and through the lens of personal experience. It is about creating a lasting record that serves the reader long after the meal has ended.

With this philosophy in mind, I approached Uyare, the new venture from the accomplished team behind Tharavadu on Mill Hill in Leeds—a restaurant I had the pleasure of introducing to my niece during a recent excursion across the Pennines from Manchester. Having experienced the excellence of Tharavadu firsthand, my expectations for Uyare were correspondingly high.

The restaurant's opening night was, by all accounts, a triumph—packed with the inevitable contingent of influencers and alive with the energy that accompanies such occasions. The food was undeniably superb, and the event itself was executed with considerable flair. However, true to my belief that exceptional dining deserves proper reflection, I chose to wait. Like a fine meal that benefits from being savoured rather than rushed, I wanted to allow the initial excitement to settle before returning for a more considered assessment.

It was on this return visit, accompanied by our excellent wine correspondent and enthusiastic foodie Nathan Lane, that we made our way through the lovely wooden-panelled entrance of Victoria Gate and ascended to the new rooftop restaurant.

A Space That Commands Attention

The interior of Uyare is nothing short of stunning—spacious and elegant, with a bar area that speaks to sophisticated tastes and refined sensibilities. This is the sort of venue where corporate entertaining could flourish, where clients might be genuinely impressed rather than merely accommodated. Indeed, with its capacity for up to 300 covers, it would serve admirably as the setting for a prestigious awards ceremony or similarly grand occasion.

The only discordant note strikes before one even enters: the buildings across the road from the entrance are in urgent need of renewal, a shabby counterpoint to the promise within. It is a reminder that first impressions matter, and in this instance, the building's opposite façade does little justice to the excellence that awaits inside. Once through the doors, however, such concerns evaporate entirely.

The layout offers pleasing flexibility—one may choose to dine within the convivial atmosphere of the bar area or retreat to the more formal dining space. There is something unexpectedly expansive about the interior that belies its external appearance.

Kerala Cuisine Elevated

Uyare positions itself within the ever-growing movement toward sophisticated South Indian cuisine, offering a distinctly modern interpretation of traditional Keralan cooking. This is not the heavy-handed curry house fare that once dominated British perceptions of Indian food; rather, it is a thoughtful exploration of regional flavours and techniques.

The service proves worthy of the interior's promise. The maître d' demonstrates that increasingly rare quality of genuine hospitality—observant enough to recognise the precise moment to interrupt a conversation, yet sufficiently knowledgeable about both the excellent wine list and the menu to guide diners meaningfully through their choices.

Where Humble Ingredients Achieve Greatness

From the lunchtime menu, several dishes immediately commanded our attention: the masala fried cauliflower, a lamb pepper fry, and the masala fried fish. Cauliflower, that most divisive of vegetables, too often suffers the indignity of being drowned in a gloopy cheese sauce reminiscent of the worst Sunday lunch excesses. Here, however, it achieves something approaching revelation.

The florets arrive tossed in Uyare's house-made spice blend—subtle yet sophisticated—and are accompanied by a sweet and tangy tomato preparation that elevates rather than masks the vegetable's inherent character. The balance between sweet and savoury proves never to be compromised; each element is perfectly judged to complement rather than compete.

The masala fried fish demonstrates similar restraint and skill. Marinated in aromatic spices and cooked to perfection, it arrives accompanied by Uyare's house-made carrot and lemon chutney—a bright, acidic counterpoint that lifts the dish to even greater heights. This is cooking that understands the fundamental principle that great cuisine lies not in complexity for its own sake but in the harmonious marriage of carefully chosen elements.

From the classic plates—served with either rice or Kerala paratha—the Chemmeen Roast proved particularly memorable. Tiger prawns are gently simmered with onions, tomatoes, and coconut milk, creating a dish of remarkable vibrancy both in taste and visual appeal. The spicing achieves that delicate equilibrium so often sought but rarely found: aromatic without being overwhelming, warming without being punishing, engaging every sense without assaulting any.

The Kerala paratha deserves special mention—this layered flatbread, crafted from refined flour, eggs, and oil, arrives at the table with a flaky exterior giving way to an appealingly soft, cloud-like interior. It serves as the ideal vehicle for the restaurant's carefully calibrated sauces and spice blends.

Both the wine list and the beer selection merit commendation, offering thoughtful pairings that complement rather than compete with the complex flavours on offer.

The Verdict

Uyare succeeds in creating that most elusive of atmospheres: a genuine buzz that never tips into chaos, an ambience that remains soft and welcoming even when the restaurant operates at capacity. The menu, rich in the culinary heritage of Kerala yet confidently modern in its execution, clearly warrants further exploration on future visits.

In a landscape increasingly dominated by the superficial assessments of social media influencers—those fleeting voices that offer spectacle over substance—Uyare stands as a testament to what thoughtful, considered dining can achieve. It is not difficult to understand the restaurant's popularity; what impresses more is how thoroughly it deserves it.The result result is destination dining that rewards patience, consideration, and an appetite for genuine culinary craft over mere Instagram moments.

Uyare: Victoria Gate 3rd Floor, Rooftop, George St, Leeds LS2 7AU
0113 460 1797
info@uyare.co.uk
More information here