Like its namesake—the vibrant wildflower whose growth is stimulated by fire—The Banksia has erupted onto Leeds' dining scene with incendiary effect. Nestled at the crossroads where Calls Lane and Swinegate meet Lower Briggate, this isn't just another Mediterranean restaurant. It's a place where, as General Manager Simon Grace puts it, "cultures and flavours collide to create a unique experience."

The glorious sunny spell we'd all been basking in seemed to be waning as I made my way there, and stepping through the doors, I'll admit I felt somewhat deflated by the exterior. The unassuming frontage gave little hint of what lay within, and my heart sank slightly at the prospect of yet another formulaic Mediterranean offering.

How spectacularly wrong I was.

How many times have you wandered into a place with lukewarm expectations, only to emerge thinking, "That was excellent"? This was precisely one of those delightful surprises that remind you why dining out remains one of life's finest pleasures. My initial thought—"not another Mediterranean restaurant"—couldn't have been more misguided. The Banksia delivers exactly what it promises: a masterful blend of old-world Middle Eastern flavours with modern, vibrant dining that truly lives up to its billing.

The Concept

This is informal fine dining with genuine flair, where diners can craft their own culinary adventure through an expertly curated small plate concept. It's an approach that's rapidly gaining momentum, and for good reason—it's perfect for sharing or sampling a wonderfully varied selection of dishes. As part of the Indigo Hotel Group, The Banksia welcomes guests from breakfast through to dinner, each service elevated by thoughtful touches from head chef Craig Rogan.

But The Banksia offers far more than just evening dining. The breakfast and brunch menu provides something for everyone—whether it's Turkish eggs or chickpea fritters, diners were still finishing their morning meals upon our arrival, testament to the restaurant's all-day appeal.

Then there's The Banksia Hummus Experience, where the dish is brought to your table and the sesame paste, garlic, and zest can be adjusted to taste, with everything garnished tableside—a theatrical touch that elevates the humble chickpea to new heights. Rogan's ingenuity extends to freezing feta, which is then grated fresh over The Banksia salad, a vibrant composition featuring peaches, cranberries, figs, dates, sumac and pomegranate molasses. For those with a sweeter tooth, there are the Lokma spiced doughnuts—soaked in honey, dusted with cinnamon sugar and topped with pistachios, served warm at the table.

The son of celebrated chef Simon Rogan, Craig brings his own distinctive vision to the kitchen, combining locally sourced produce with global influences. His six-year tenure as a prominent figure in Leeds' thriving food scene speaks volumes, with recognition including 'Chef of the Year' and 'Best Restaurant' awards that reflect his commitment to both culinary excellence and nurturing emerging talent.

Service and Atmosphere

Barry, who was working front of house, proved to be a consummate professional—warm and welcoming, extremely knowledgeable, never intrusive but always available to answer questions. His attention to detail was exemplary, the sort of service that elevates a meal from excellent to memorable.

The Food

There are plenty of Mediterranean staples on offer, though it was disappointing to find that the lamb tagine and signature spiced lamb hummus kavurma were unavailable during our visit. However, there were more than enough dishes to savour, and Rogan's interpretation was surprisingly sophisticated.

King prawns

Scallops

The shell-on king prawns, nestled atop a silky sauce of garlic, chilli and parsley, were simply sublime. Rather than the usual oil and garlic presentation, this creamy sauce was delightfully light with a subtle sweetness that proved utterly moreish. The chilli lifted the dish perfectly, while the king scallops with traditional Middle Eastern dukkah, aubergine, and lime showcased Rogan's skill beautifully—the scallops cooked to perfection with a spot-on texture.

The rump steak, cooked to a perfect medium-rare and accompanied by impeccably seasoned thyme salt chips, came with a peppercorn sauce that was a revelation. Rather than the heavy, cream-laden version one might expect, this was light and piquant with a distinctive Mediterranean tang that was absolutely scrumptious.

The rump steak

Roasted pomegranate chicken

batata harra

The roasted pomegranate chicken with sweet peppers, courgettes and sumac mushrooms delivered lovely warmth without overwhelming heat. The fragrance alone was enough to whet the appetite, whereas the moist chicken, diced courgettes, and pomegranate seeds created a delightful textural contrast. The batata harra, garnished with aioli and crispy fried shallots, was beautifully presented and packed with flavour.

The Sweet Finish

The desserts were nothing short of revelatory. The citrus cheesecake with rose syrup and almond crumble arrived as a clever deconstruction—a light, soft cheese base perched atop fine crumble with scattered almonds for extra crunch. It was as light as a feather, delicate yet satisfying.

The dark chocolate mousse with coffee caramel and mint ice cream offered a sophisticated take on the chocolate-mint combination. The ice cream was refreshingly balanced, with the mintiness cutting through the rich chocolate with remarkable refinement. The silky mousse had an almost lustrous quality that spoke to the kitchen's technical prowess.

We concluded with an espresso featuring beans from The Banksia's collaboration with Maude Coffee, accompanied by a carefully warmed brandy served with considerable finesse—the glass brought to the table sitting elegantly over a dish of hot water, a thoughtful touch that elevated the entire experience.

The Philosophy Behind the Fire

Craig’s passion for The Banksia project becomes immediately apparent. "The decision to join The Banksia team and move back into the hotel hospitality world was an easy one for me," he explains. "I love to lead a large team and curate new menus that will resonate with guests and just generally bring a smile to people's faces through food," he says.

His commitment to Yorkshire's exceptional produce is unwavering: "There's a perfect spot in the Leeds food scene for The Banksia, and Yorkshire is named God's Own Country for a reason, and our menu will be a celebration of that. It's home to so much amazing produce, so we will be utilising ingredients right from our doorstep and just beyond, which not only supports our local food scene but also contributes to more sustainable practices."

This sustainability ethos runs deep. "I've also designed the menu's recipes in a way that limits food waste, making sure we're using every last bit of our ingredients. That's something as a chef that I'm super passionate about, because I hate to see any good food go to waste when it can just be used in a creative way."

The Verdict

What began as a reluctant visit transformed into an afternoon of genuine discovery. The Banksia succeeds where so many Mediterranean restaurants fail—by respecting tradition while embracing innovation and understanding that great dining is as much about atmosphere and service as it is about the food on the plate. Craig Rogan has created something rather special here, and Leeds is all the better for it.

Like the resilient wildflower from which it takes its name, The Banksia has found the perfect conditions to flourish. In a city blessed with an increasingly sophisticated dining scene, it more than holds its own. This is destination dining that happens to be conveniently located, rather than a convenient option that aspires to greatness. The difference, as any seasoned diner will tell you, is everything. The fire has been lit, and The Banksia is blooming magnificently.

The Banksia
Location: Ground Floor Restaurant
Restaurant Phone: 44-113-2436454
The Banksia is an all day dining experience with a modern Greek, Turkish and broader Mediterranean Aegean feel.

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Breakfast: Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, Friday: 6:30 am-10:30 am
Saturday, Sunday: 7:00 am-11:00 am

Lunch: Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, Friday, Saturday, Sunday: 12:00 am-6:00 pm

Dinner: Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Thursday, Friday, Saturday, Sunday: 4:00 pm-10:00 pm