travel
Dazzling Sahara, Vibrant Souks: Why Morocco Has Me Hooked
![Sahara adventures await outside Marrakesh Images by Steve Hare]()
Sahara adventures await outside Marrakesh Images by Steve Hare
When the festive decorations start to look as jaded as many of us feel and the weather forecast is beyond depressing; it’s time to seek new adventures in exotic climes.
While this may sound challenging, both geographically and financially, especially if you only have a few days off work, it is more do-able than you may think. A flight of less than four hours can transport you from Manchester, Leeds Bradford and Newcastle airports to the bustle of Marrakesh at the foothills of the Atlas Mountains.
Our Lifestyle and Leisure Editor, Sharon Cain, shares the sensory and cultural feast of Africa she experienced with our Photographer, Steve Hare.
Todra Gorge: A Natural Wonder
![Towering limestone cliffs at Todra Gorge]()
Towering limestone cliffs at Todra Gorge
It would have been a cardinal sin to have flown into the mayhem of Marrakesh and stayed put for five nights.
Instead, we embarked on a two night, three day tour, which we organised ourselves in Marrakesh, and which transported us to remarkable sights across mountains, gorges and desert (of the Sahara kind).
High on the ‘wow’ scale - and not just because it dominates the landscape at 300 metres - was the Todra Gorge in the High Atlas Mountains, North Africa’s highest mountain range.
Among the most breath-taking landscapes we were yet to encounter, I grappled with how this geographical marvel of limestone cliffs formed over millions of years had evolved into such an awe-inspiring art form. If this was a taster of what was in store, I couldn’t wait to see the rest.
Transcending Cultures and Civilisations
![The Ksar Ait Ben Haddou is among the world’s most iconic landmarks]()
The Ksar Ait Ben Haddou is among the world’s most iconic landmarks
Even more impressive was the Ksar Ait Ben Haddou, a fortified village and UNESCO World Heritage Site in the Atlas Mountains.
Situated on the former camel caravan route between the Sahara and Marrakesh, the vast desert landscape set my imagination racing to days gone by when weary camels, weighed down with gold and spices, rested before their onward journeys.
Originating from the Berber tribes, the Ksar’s architectural and cultural significance places it among the world’s most iconic landmarks.
It is also the location for epics including
Laurence of Arabia,
Jewel of the Nile,
Game of Thrones and
Gladiator when a mud brick 30,000-seater arena was constructed at the foothills.
Fortified since the 11th century, the historical drama and political intrigue played out on the site which underwent French, Berber, and Roman occupation, could no doubt match the fictitious plots filmed here with illustrious actors Peter O’Toole, Omar Sharif, Alex Guinness and Anthony Quinn.
Exploring the Ksar’s narrow, winding streets where Berbers, the indigenous people of North Africa who make up sixty five per cent of the country’s population, still live, provided a real life glimpse into the past.
At a nearby village, we saw women dexterously washing clothes in a stream and purchased two desert-themed prints which radiate Moroccan sunshine through the gloomiest of winter days.
Smouldering Sahara Sunsets
![Sunset at Merzouga: gateway to the Sahara]()
Sunset at Merzouga: gateway to the Sahara
We stayed in a traditional Moroccan riad on our first night with genial hosts serving traditional Moroccan fayre of harira soup made with tomatoes, chickpeas, lentils and chicken couscous.
Next day we were Sahara bound - fulfilling a dream on my bucket list - a sunset camel trek across the dramatic desert dunes.
Covering one third of the African continent, the Sahara stretches almost four million square miles. The sense of timelessness and tranquillity in this spiritual oasis as the sun slowly descended was very special.
My admiration for our camel companions Bob Marley and Charlie, who can withstand the harshest of desert conditions, rocketed as Hassan, our camel rider, guided us on the importance of holding on tight during the steep descent to our Berber camp.
Unsure what to expect, our stay with the local tribes - the hospitality, strains of traditional Berber music around a roaring campfire and sophisticated set up with Wi-Fi plugs, showers, and electricity - was amazing. Sleeping under the stars and ensconced in copious blankets as temperatures plummeted was deliciously decadent.
Desert Drama: Atlas Film Studios
![Movie magic: Egyptian Sphinx from <i>The Mummy</i>]()
Movie magic: Egyptian Sphinx from The Mummy
Our last, and most fun-packed stop before returning to Marrakesh, was the Atlas Film Studios graced by esteemed actors and legendary directors such as Martin Scorsese and Ridley Scott.
Founded almost four decades ago in 1983, it is among the world’s biggest film studies due to Morocco’s dramatic buildings, conducive climate, and low production costs. It is also vital to the country’s economy and cultural standing.
A guided tour is compulsory, and the entertainment value is second to none as we relived world-renowned blockbusters including
Lawrence of Arabia, Casablanca, and
Black Hawk Down.
![Clockwise from top left: A set from <i>Kundun</i>, red car from the film <i>Atlas</i>, prison bus from <i>Jailbreak</i> and the market place in <i>Gladiator</i>]()
Clockwise from top left: A set from Kundun, red car from the film Atlas, prison bus from Jailbreak and the market place in Gladiator
Among the lavish sets are those from
Kundun based on the true story of an Austrian mountain climber who became friends with the Dalai Lama during China's violent takeover of Tibet. The production brought Scorsese and a 200-strong cast of actors and film crew to the studio for three months - with just five minutes of action making the final cut.
The studio’s backdrop against the Atlas Mountains was spectacular, and the anecotes exciting. Our proud-as-punch tour guide excitedly shared his claim to fame as an extra in movies including
Gladiator.
Marrakesh: Fabulously Frenetic
![Hold your breath!: Marrakesh Tannery]()
Hold your breath!: Marrakesh Tannery
The madness of Marrakesh, known as the Red City due to its striking red walls, has to be seen to be believed.
A true contradiction, it assaults the senses and exhilarates the soul in equal measure.
I don’t know of anyone, including us, who has ventured into the complex labyrinth of narrow, winding alleys and tunnels and hidden souks of the Medina without getting lost amid the deafening sound of motorbikes and pushy street vendors.
If visitors like us come unstuck, many locals will offer to guide them out of the maze for a fee. We were exceptionally fortunate as a gentle, mild mannered schoolteacher asking me about our trip navigated us to the exit and refused to take any money.
Before visiting the tannery, where all the leather goods are made, I’d strongly advise holding your breath or come armed with lavender to counteract the noxious stench of excrement and urine from dogs and birds which is mixed with lime and water to soften the hides before tanning.
My tan faded to a white pallor and my stomach was doing revolutions as we were shown around the fascinating traditional process which dates back to the 11th century.
Tranquil Oasis
![Flourishing haven: Majorelle Gardens]()
Flourishing haven: Majorelle Gardens
Close by, a more fragrant scene greeted us at the exquisite Majorelle Gardens.
We meandered leisurely around the landscapes punctuated with distinctive Majorelle Blue buildings named after the garden’s creator, Jacques Majorelle. Plants from around the world including palm trees, bamboo, and cacti thrive in the peaceful setting.
We combined our garden visit with another key sightseeing destination, the Yves Saint Laurent museum which showcases the icon’s rich heritage through clothes, accessories and drawings - a fitting a tribute to a true visionary whose talent still influences what we wear today.
Bahia Palace
![Marble courtyard at Bahia Palace]()
Marble courtyard at Bahia Palace
Bahia Palace, meaning ‘Arabic Brilliance’ was named in honour of the favourite wife of its creator Sultan Abdelaziz Ahmed Ben Moussa.
Aspiring to be the greatest palace of its time when built in the 19th century, it is architecturally stunning. When we visited the marble courtyard glistened with freshly fallen raindrops, further enhancing its beauty.
![A remote Berber Village in the Tachkin Pass, Atlas Mountains]()
A remote Berber Village in the Tachkin Pass, Atlas Mountains
The diverse geographical and cultural landscapes we had experienced had whetted our appetites for more in-depth explorations - so much so we embarked on a 10-week road trip off the beaten track into the heart of Morocco where an abundance of hidden gems awaited. More on our adventures in future articles.
KEY FACTS
Sharon Cain and Steve Hare travelled independently to Marrakesh
Flights are available from Manchester, Leeds Bradford and Newcastle airports to Marrakesh
Visit Morocco provides updated travel guidance
Visit Marrakesh provides information on attractions
Tours to Tsar Ait Ben Haddu, the Sahara, Todra Gorge and Atlas Film studios can be organised through companies including Marrakesh City Life