The Danube, a majestic waterway which Napoleon called the ‘Queen of European Rivers’, is the only river in the world to border ten countries.

Flowing 1,770 miles from Germany’s Black Forest to the mouth of the Black Sea, its rich, cultural diversity spanning Imperial cities, fairytale castles, vineyards, and wildlife make it an increasingly popular destination.

Our Lifestyle and Leisure Editor, Sharon Cain, and Photographer, Steve Hare, embarked on a week-long river cruise with AmaWaterways to experience the Danube’s delights.

Resplendent Sail Away

The rich strains of the immortal waltz, The Blue Danube, floated across the top deck in perfect harmony with Budapest’s jaw-dropping architecture.

A golden glow radiated from the Hungarian Parliament Building. Breathtaking in its grandeur, it reflected the pride of the Imperial city and ‘Queen of the Danube’. I wanted to freeze this moment in time as our AmaMagna river cruise ship passed by the imposing Buda Castle, and the iconic Chain Bridge connecting the city with Pest on the eastern bank.

With 16 cruises across three continents, predominantly on larger ships, under my belt, I was used to scrambling with thousands of fellow passengers to capture the sail away highlights.

With less than a dozen people on the spacious top deck, this experience was decadently delicious, and we swirled in time to the music.

Architectural splendour

My wanderlust reignited, I relished the prospect of a more intimate experience on our Magna On The Danube exploration with less than 200 passengers. Our itinerary through Hungary, Slovakia, Austria, and Germany promised a culinary and classical feast fusing eastern and western European cultures.

Lap of Luxury

Our journey was effortless. After a 2-hour 40-minute flight from Manchester and a 30-minute private transfer from Budapest airport, we boarded AmaMagna where the Main Restaurant buzzed with a sense of excitement.

Wine and convivial conversation flowed during our inaugural four-course meal with fellow diners Arthur and Martha from Missouri, the first of many like-minded new friends we made onboard.

First impressions really do count. The onboard team made us feel part of something very special with outstanding service and attention to detail from the word go. After dinner a sparkling Hungarian Reisling awaited us in our balcony stateroom, the anticipation of which reduced my usual unpacking time by half. Returning from breakfast the next morning, we were greeted with an exquisite silk scarf and navy-blue men’s cap accompanied by a note hoping we had enjoyed our first night aboard.

Flocks and Locks

We were blessed with a beautiful autumnal day heading to Slovakia with swans gliding gracefully and flocks of geese migrating south. Teeming with wildlife through the seasons, the Danube’s inhabitants include mute swans, white-tailed eagles, and kingfishers. There is also an abundance of fish such as Danube salmon, Danube roach, and carp.

Aligned with AmaWaterways farm-to-table philosophy of sourcing fresh produce, herbs and freshwater fish from local farmers, river fish dishes including a delicious soup appeared on the day’s lunch menu.

I held my breadth at the ship’s dexterity in navigating the Gabčíkovo Lock and Hydroelectric Powerplant, an engineering innovation. As the AmaMagna is double the width of traditional European cruise ships, this was no mean feat. Touching the lock walls was surreal.

Bratislava: A Capital Bordering Three Countries

Bratislava, which became part of Slovakia in 1993, is the only capital in the world situated on the border of three countries, Slovakia, Austria, and Hungary.

Known as Coronation City, it was the capital of the Kingdom of Hungary for almost 250 years. We opted for a walking tour with a small group. Guests liked the fact that excursions are included in the overall cost and the flexibility to swap a pre-booked tour for an alternative trip or opt out and do their own thing up until the last minute.

We ramped up our pace as our guide strode purposefully towards the ruins of the 13th century Bratislava Castle where we were rewarded by a 360-degree views across three countries.

While the tour felt rushed, I loved the Salvator Pharmacy, Bratislava’s oldest pharmacy from 1904 and suspended in time with its baroque cabinets, cash register, and electric lamps. Unable to buy any aspirin, I was offered a raft of homeopathic remedies with unpronounceable names which could also be purchased online. My headache miraculously disappeared with an effusive on board welcome and a Cuba Libre, the Sip & Sail Cocktail of the Day.

Apple Strudel, Strauss, and Schönbrunn

The grandeur of Vienna, a magical city of imperial palaces, cakes, and acclaimed composers, is unparalleled.

Christmas preparations were in full swing as we feasted on apple strudel bursting with flavour at the vibrant, pink-themed Aida café in Mariahilfer Street. Returning to the ship, we demolished it all over again. I won’t reveal which was the winner!

Tourists and locals were also tucking into Sachertorte (Chocolate cake), another culinary speciality. Invented by Franz Sacher in 1832, legal battles have raged over ownership of the recipe.

Fuelled with cake, we were driven to the spectacular Schönbrunn Palace, which means ‘beautiful spring’ - a UNESCO World Heritage site designed to rival the Palace of Versailles.

The palace served as a lavish summer residence for the mighty Habsburg dynasty who ruled over Austria and vast empires for over six centuries. Their burning ambition to expand their wealth and dynasty resulted in genetic defects, namely the infamous ‘Habsburg jaw,’ an unsightly protruding chin caused by incessant inbreeding.

The tour included the showcase Grand Galley with its lavish frescos and gilt stucco décor. Admittedly stunning, for me it did not equal the incomparable beauty of the Palace of Versailles.

Our Viennese whirl – the whistle-stop tour as opposed to the cake - also took in the exterior of Hofburg Imperial Palace, the Habsburgs’ winter residence. The seat of power for six centuries, until the end of World War I, it earns its standing among the world’s biggest and grandest residential complexes. The best though, was yet to come.

Milestone 200 Year Celebrations of Strauss

When in Vienna, a classical concert is compulsory. Austrians are understandably passionate about music and their esteemed composers including Mozart, Beethoven, Schubert and Strauss.

This year marks the 200th anniversary of Johann Strauss II ‘The Waltz King’ who shaped Vienna’s musical legacy with his father, Johann Strauss I, the ‘Father of the Viennese Waltz’. Dressed in our glad rags, we were transported back to Vienna’s golden era at the magnificent and historic Strauss Hall where, thanks to AmaWaterways, our party was ensconced in excellent seats.

Accompanied by an animated and sumptuous Viennese ball backdrop, the top class orchestra performed legendary father and son compositions including The Blue Waltz and Tritsch Tratsch Polka with the audience going wild during the finale, the legendary Radetzky March. A night to remember forever and perfectly rounded off with lashing of goulash soup and Viennese sausages in the ship’s Al Fresco restaurant.

Wine and Wellbeing In The Wachau Valley

The next morning I soaked up the beauty of Austria’s Wachau Valley, a hidden gem dotted with picture postcard villages, medieval castles and monasteries. The region boasts an abundance of centuries old lush vineyards producing dry wines such as Reisling, Zwigelt, and Chardonnay.

Our first stop was Durnstein Abbey, a baroque jewel where Richard The Lionheart was imprisoned and later released after the English coughed up a 150,000 mark ransom, around $88,400 in today’s equivalent. Definitely a destination to return to and enjoy glorious walks.

AmaWaterways champions a healthy lifestyle, with trips hiking, walking, and cycling tours available. In Spitz, a picturesque market town in Krems-land, Steve was among a group of 20 on a scenic cycle ride through vineyards.

The majority of AmaWaterways fleet has a dedicated Wellness Host. Our host, Milos, offered core strengthening, stretching and High Intensity 100’s classes. There is also a gym, wellness centre, pickleball court, and heated sundeck pool and the breakfast menu includes a Wellness Bowl of the Day.

Having A Ball in Salzburg

Deciding which excursions to select can be agonising - Czech Republic or Salzburg? The latter won the toss. Armed with a take-out coffee, a comfortable two-hour coach drive later and we were there.

Salzburg’s architectural landscape fuses the contemporary and historical such as the imposing Hohensalzburg Fortress, Central Europe’s largest preserved castle from 1892 which symbolises the city.

Aficionados of The Sound of Music, which smashed box office records in 29 countries, flock to the baroque Mirabell Garden and the Pegasus Fountain where Maria and the Von Trapp children joyfully danced and sang Do-Re-Mi around the fountain. I made a note to revisit the film.

Salzburg is also synonymous with Mozart, one of the world’s most acclaimed composers. A child prodigy born in Salzburg in 1756 and composing over 600 works before his died of an infection at just 35 years old. It seemed fitting that his statue was the meeting point for the coach back.

Gastronomic Delights

Every meal was an adventure, we dined like the Habsburgs, our taste buds stimulated by regionally inspired cuisine prepared with fresh local ingredients. Lunch and dinner comprise four courses with a wealth of options spanning pan-fried catfish fillet, herb-mustard crusted lamb racks, local sourced Muscovy, traditional Viennese Schnitzel.

There are four fabulous restaurants and ship has its own herb garden. Snacks are served from 10pm-11pm nightly and good-quality wines complement the dishes.

Activities and Entertainment

There is no shortage of fun and entertainment - from the delightful duo Anna Morton and Richard Kovacs, dance party nights, music quiz, and classical trio. We were serenaded Bavarian style and has a blast with lederhosen-clad German dancers performing a lively Schuhplattler. Daytime activities included apple strudel making and tips on taking better photographs on mobile phones.

AmaWaterways ethos of valuing its teams permeated the luxury river cruise, extending to tour guides who, like staff and guests, are embraced as part of the extended ‘family’. I had the time of my life, loving the genuine welcome on returning from every tour, the impeccable service from dawn to dusk, the small tour groups, relaxed social atmosphere, and the ship’s close proximity to destinations.

Consistently delivering exemplary standards on this scale is nothing short of inspirational and blew me away. We’ve already signed up for polka, castles, and wine on the Rhine next spring. This is my kind of family, and one I want to spend quality time with in the months and years to come.

Here are some more beautiful memories:

KEY FACTS
Sharon Cain and Steve Hare were guests of AmaWaterways Magna On The Danube seven-night fly-cruise from Budapest to Vilshofen.
Itinerary: Budapest-Hungary, Bratislava-Slovakia, Vienna-Austria, Krems-Austria, Spitz-Austria, Linz-Austria, Passau-Germany, Vilshofen-Germany. Trips can be extended to include two nights hotel stay in Budapest and three nights in Prague.
2025 remaining departures : November 30, December 7, December 14, December21, December 28 (anniversary sale) from £4,266 2025 Magna On The Danube - Dates & Prices
For details of additional river cruises and itineraries in Europe and worldwide, visit Luxury River Cruise Line | Europe Asia Africa | AmaWaterways™