travel
Norways Beautiful Fjords
Norway is a land of contrasts, from the historic and bustling city of Bergen to its famed lakes and mountain vistas.
Norway's majestic fjords serve as its crowning feature. Here wild and wonderful glaciers and powerful waterfalls nestle side by side with picture postcard villages and fruit-growing orchards.
No matter how many times you visit Norway, there’s always something new to be seen.
With over 175 years of cruising under their belt, Fred Olsen Cruise Lines is a shining example of exploring this natural wonderland with their 9-day Scenic Landscapes of the Norwegian Fjords.
Because their ships are smaller, they have the advantage of being able to dock in places where the larger ships cannot – thus eliminating having to queue for tenders to take passengers on shore to join their excursions.
‘Fred’, as he’s lovingly known by to his brigade of loyal cruisers, also has the added advantage that the majority of his cruises depart from UK ports such as Liverpool, Newcastle and Southampton.
I joined Bolette, the flagship of the Fred Olsen Fleet, in Liverpool. My embarkation was seamless. My luggage was whisked away as I arrived, and within half an hour I was enjoying lunch in the View Restaurant.
![The Antrium]()
The Antrium
Bolette has 690 cabins and carries 1,338 passengers. It has 6 restaurants, 8 bars and lounges, 2 swimming pools (one with a retractable roof), a spa and salon, a fitness centre, and a theatre, plus all the other amenities one would expect of a luxury cruise ship.
My balcony suite was spacious and well furnished with a comfortable double bed, lots of cupboard and drawer space, a long comfy sofa and coffee table with a whirlpool bath and overhead shower and a lovely deep washbasin. I loved my balcony with its small table and comfortable lounging chairs, but sadly the weather only permitted a few lounging moments on my balcony.
The cruise started with two sea days, and if the thought of two full days at sea puts you off, then think again. Your days will never go quicker with the menu of facilities, activities, events and entertainment on board, which starts at 7.00am and continues beyond the bewitching hour.
There are well over 60 different activities taking place throughout the ship throughout the day and well into the evening. You name it – it’s on offer on Bolette. From killer darts, shuffleboard, line dancing, quizzes of all kinds, and craft and art classes – even knit and natter. You can learn ballroom dancing, whist, and backgammon; there’s bridge for beginners, and you can even learn to sing or listen to talks from guest speakers or learn the secrets of the chefs.
All this plus a fitness centre, spa, library and salon with a theatre show in the evenings, films, or you can dance your socks off until the midnight hour to a great retro disco. Oh, and I forgot to mention the six different genres of music throughout the day and night, ranging from funky blues to the classics with a cocktail pianist.
Dining on board is a five-star experience. The two-tiered Terrace and Bloomsbury restaurants are Art Deco elegance personified with their sweeping staircases and stained glass ceiling and wrap-around windows with ocean views. The View restaurant is a self-service option but is elegant with tables dressed tastefully and an attentive staff of servers that serve beverages to your table. Experience breakfast, lunch, afternoon tea and dinner, and there’s even a supper club from 11 to midnight here in The View.
I dined in the small private dining room off the Terrace restaurant, The Orchid Room, which caters for suite passengers. The tables were beautifully choreographed, and we had our own waiter for the whole of the cruise who was just so amazing – after a day, he knew our likes and dislikes in terms of food and often recommended dishes and would produce the substitutes I asked for as if by magic. He also knew I adored coffee ice cream!
The menu is varied and has lots of dishes, including an always available section, plus lots of choices of starters, soups and salads, main courses which always include a British dish of the day, and sweets that are just heaven on a plate.
The two speciality dining venues are more than special. Colours and Tastes offers modern, delicious Asian fusion dishes in cheerful, sophisticated and colourful surroundings.
Vasco, named after the first European to reach India by sea, offers a fresh, modern take on Indian food and a menu inspired by chefs from Goa and their culinary traditions.
After two days getting very used to the relaxed pace of shipboard life, my first Norwegian adventure began. It had been a difficult decision which excursion to choose.
Fred Olsen Cruise Lines offers a choice of over 60 different excursions plus shipboard experiences to suit everyone. From kayaking, a seaplane or an RIB experience, hiking, and a trip on a veteran boat to baking and fishing experiences, e-biking or helicopter sightseeing, and visits to museums, folk farms and nature reserves.
Very early that morning we docked at Ulvik, a serene village nestled in the Hardangerfjord region, known for its stunning fjord views, lush orchards and surrounding mountains. I was up at the crack of dawn – after a room service breakfast in my cabin, I was ready to disembark.
The Norway in a Nutshell Tour took me on a seven-hour scenic rail and coach experience travelling on winding roads laced with orchards. There were tunnels through mountains with some scary hairpin bends, but one thing dominated: wonderful views of the fjords, mountains and lakes.
Eventually we reached Voss to board the world-famous Flåm Line, where antique trains take you on one of the world’s steepest standard-gauge railway journeys through an ever-changing scenic wonder of delight.
After lunch we boarded the coach to Tvindelfossen, a stunning tiered waterfall with a curtain-like appearance and a drop of 110 metres. Situated off the main road, the waterfall is often known as the ‘fountain of youth’.
After having a well-earned stroll to stretch our legs, it was back to the ship for dinner, and for me – after all, it was Saturday – it was time to dance the night away to chart hits in the Observatory.
That night we set sail for Eidfjord, a picturesque chocolate-box village at the edge of the fjord. With only a short time here and after the long excursion the day before, I decided on a very different train trip this time on the Troll Train, which was so cute it wouldn’t have looked out of place on the seafront at Bridlington!
The train took us to the top of the village, stopping on the way at the old white church, which dates back to the 1300s. Eidfjord became a popular place in the late 1800s, as the aristocracy used to salmon fish there. After our short tour it was back to the ship with some traditional Norwegian folk music to serenade us on the quayside as we sailed away.
After a roast Sunday lunch, we started to cruise the Hardangerfjord, which spans 111 nautical miles through some of the country’s most spectacular scenery.
It’s an ever-changing landscape surrounded by steep mountains, cascading waterfalls and lush fruit orchards dotted along its shores with little white fairytale cottages clinging on to the hillside. This was scenic cruising at its very best.
Later that afternoon, I had booked some ‘me’ time in the Thermal Suite. This suite is the perfect place to relax with its panoramic views, two aromatherapy steam rooms, heated hydro tub and ceramic relaxation beds that are designed to relax your spine and ease muscle tension – but unfortunately it was a little too chilly to experience the outside private deck area with its sun loungers.
After dinner I watched the show in the theatre before listening to some country music in the piano bar.
Next morning I drew back my curtains, and we had arrived in Olden in Western Norway.
As my excursion didn’t leave until around midday after breakfast, I decided to head down to the fitness centre for the stretch and relax class, which I had booked in anticipation of needing some gentle exercise. I enjoyed it immensely, and it became an integral part of my morning routine for the duration of the cruise.
The Kjenndalen Glacier and Lovatnet Lake were next on my excursion agenda.
Boarding the MS Knjenndal II, we set sail across the green waters of Lake Lovatnet. This glacial lake has much history, and our captain regaled us with details of the fascinating landscape – its history and its tragedies – during our 45-minute voyage.
Our boat docked at Kjenndalstove, where we enjoyed coffee and homemadewaffles before boarding a bus to take us to the glacier. On our way through the national park, our guide told a fascinating story about the trolls, as this was the area where the trolls originated. And true to the legend, he urged us to be quiet as we crossed a certain bridge and not wake up the bad troll.
Just a short walk from the parking lot gave us a breathtaking view of just a fraction of the Kjenndalen Glacier, the largest one on Europe’s mainland, covering 62 miles. Then it was time to return on the MS Knjenndal II to the music of Grieg, whose music was inspired by his native Norway, before we returned to the ship.
That evening it was time for some fun with some of my fellow travellers with the Silent Disco, followed by some Magic of Soul and Motown in the Observatory.
Next morning we docked at one of my favourite places in Norway – Bergen, the country’s second-largest city.
I was pleased to have reserved the scenic coach tour around Bergen because, as we boarded the bus, the skies suddenly opened up—resulting in two hours of rain-free sightseeing throughout the city.
I knew Bergen quite well and had advised some of my new cruise chums to make sure they visited the Fish Market and walked down Bryggen’s Wharfe – and they were glad they did.
The rain had stopped when we returned to the ship, so I changed into another jacket and made my way into town. I meandered on Bryggen’s Wharfe with its wooden walkways and painted buildings and then made my way to the ancient fish market, from where I somehow found my way to Strandgaten, the famous shopping street, for some retail therapy.
As we were overnight in Bergen, there was no rush back. After enjoying a leisurely dinner, I listened to various styles of music in the various bars until it was well past the bewitching hour.
Next morning we set sail from Bergen for the journey home. That morning I was invited on the Behind the Scenes Tour – a fascinating three hours exploring the areas of the ship that are usually off limits to guests.
The first part of the tour saw us tracing food from palette to plate, and we explored the chilled, frozen and dry store and learnt how the provisions are ordered, loaded and stored.
It was incredible to learn that 461 kg of cheese, 3,428 litres of milk, 2,348 kg of fish, 23,910 eggs, 9,755 kg of vegetables and 4,372 kg of fruit were among some of the provisions that the galley team had used during our cruise.
It was then down to the bottom of the ship and into the laundry, where a staff of 14 launders 4,000 pieces in 6 machines.
After that we had a very welcoming snack of canapés and bucks fizz before visiting the galley with its 82 chefs who work 24 hours over 3 shifts, providing 5,000 meals for passengers and crew.
It was then time to visit the technical side with a visit to the spaceship-like Engine Control Room, which was more than fascinating, before the pièce de résistance visit to the bridge – my sixth bridge visit over the last 16 months on different cruise lines – all are fascinatingly different – just like their captain.
In the afternoon I visited the hair salon in the spa, as it was formal night and my usually pristine bob had become more like a Brillo pad with yesterday’s rain.
This was followed up by enjoying the traditional afternoon tea in the stylish Observatory lounge, complete with appropriate music. It is really traditional with a choice of premium teas, elegant finger sandwiches, pastries and warm scones with jam and cream! And it’s all the better with the obligatory glass of fizz.
After dinner I saw the best show of the week in the shape of the ‘crew show’ that saw the talented crew entertain with many beautiful and traditional songs from their homelands plus some great up-to-the-minute songs and ballads.
The last day of the cruise had finally come, and I really had to visit the Auditorium and its cinema experience. That afternoon it couldn’t have been a better choice for me, as the musical drama Aretha, following Aretha Franklin’s career from a child singing in her father’s church choir to international stardom, was being shown.
As part of my relaxation plan, I had booked some final me time in the spa with a facial from the Thalgo range, which, with my beauty editor's hat on, is simply the best, delivered by a superb beauty therapist. After hundreds of facials over the years, this is the first one I have had, either on land or sea, where I had a wonderful view of the ocean through a large window as I relaxed.
Dinner on my last night was a very pleasant time, and I loved the presentation of all the waiters, chefs and managers who marched down the curved golden staircase of The Terrace and Bloomsbury restaurants to ‘We are family’ – and I can tell you there was not a ‘dry eye in the house’ after that superbly choreographed piece of theatre.
Late-night dancing, farewells and the suitcases line the hall – a sign most regular cruisers will recognise. In less than 12 hours I will be at home with a cuppa, faced with unpacking and repacking Coggins' suitcase for another destination, but this time on dry land.
For a link to all of Fred Olsens Fjord cruises visit: Norwegian Fjords Cruises 2025, 2026 & 2027 or for general Fred Olsen Cruise information visit www.fredolsencruises.co.uk