Egremont is a pretty enough place. It has a long, straight high street that could pass for any number of Lake District towns, and an ancient church but, lurking at the foot of the ruins of its 12th century castle sits something of a more curious nature……a bronze statue of a man gurning!

For the uninitiated gurning, according to Wikipedia is: “…..a British word for pulling a grotesque face.”

And, in the land of unusual sporting events, a competition has been made of it or, to be more specific, Egremont is now the established home of the World Gurning Championships which take place annually each September as part of the town’s Crab Fair.

The Egremont Crab Fair dates back to 1267, when a local lord was granted a royal charter to hold a weekly market and annual harvest festival: however, whilst the date of the first gurning competition is unknown, it was first written about as an "ancient tradition" in 1852!

It is one of the more unusual discoveries you are likely to make in the lesser explored parts of the Western Lakes, which Cumbria Tourism is now promoting, alongside wider National Park areas, via a series of specially created itineraries centred on themes like The Roman Empire, Coastal Adventure, Industrial History / Heritage and Culture Vulture.

So, it was with some enthusiasm, as a culture and museum nut, that I set off for Maryport, not knowing quite what to expect: I was pleasantly surprised.

Firstly, I must admit to having had a business partner who hails from the area and, when he left in the late 70’s/ early 80’s it was a largely industrial town cum working port which, he said, he couldn’t wait to leave.

That said, it was also one of the very reasons that iconic painter L.S. Lowry found his way there, going on to make several spots in the centre famous in his paintings.

Maryport has its ‘modern’ roots in the18th century when in 1749, Humphrey Senhouse, a renowned local landowner, obtained an Act of Parliament to develop a new town and harbour, which he named after his wife, Mary.

Five years later, following the creation of the new port, an iron blast furnace was established beside the River Ellen.

The town expanded rapidly in a planned way, incorporating elegant features such as cobbled Fleming Square with its Georgian architecture.

By 1800, the town had 3000 inhabitants and 90 ships.

The only difference now, of course, is that there has been major regeneration and someone has had the good sense to latch onto the Lowry connection, producing the L.S. Lowry Art Trail in which he is heavily featured along with the work of other local luminaries.

You can drop into the Shipping Brow Gallery where you can see the splendid work of maritime artist, William Mitchell, euphemistically known as Mitchell of Maryport, and Percy Kelly or, if he is in, say hello to artist in residence, Jim Osborne!


”I was down to my last £3 when I arrived at The Melbreak Hotel,” said 19-year-old Aussie barman Nick.

We were staying there for the night and he was travelling across the UK and Europe as part of a year out ahead of university.

“I love travelling,” he confided, “but that day, I really was broke so I was delighted to get a job. Thank you Melbreak! “he added, pouring me a glass of orange juice.

It was a welcome stop at a pleasant hostelry where the room was impeccably clean with lovely open views and no threat of noise other than sheep munching in the meadow!

There was also plenty of parking and a good breakfast, however, we had been able to enjoy our first evening’s meal at the Aspava Turkish Restaurant, five miles down the road in Cockermouth.

Owned by Mehmet Durmus and his wife, Tracy, Aspava is eight years established and well patronised by both locals and visitors.

“I am at home in Cockermouth,” grinned Mehmet, having responded well to my banter about Turkey’s President Erdoğan, “I am from Gazi Amtep in the south east of the country, a UNESCO gastronomy city.”

Co owner, Mehmet Durmus

A taste of Turkey

Tracy joined us: “Because other parts of the Lakes are now comparatively expensive – Keswick and Kendal for instance – it has pushed people over our way because it is still cheaper in the Western Lakes.

"It’s a lovely, less explored area, but is certainly happening more and more with each passing year.”

Across the road is Stephen Kidd’s cake and coffee shop, The Moon and Sixpence. He was a man once consumed by wanderlust! “I taught English in Hong Kong but learned the art of coffee in Vancouver.

Stephen Kidd (R), owner of the Moon & Sixpence takes a break with Travel Ed Phil Hopkins

“When I returned to Cockermouth, which I couldn’t leave fast enough as a young man, I asked my dad if I could have some of my inheritance early to open The Moon & Sixpence!

"He agreed and the rest, as they say, is history. Now, I love the place: we still have a fishmonger, two butchers’ shops and a couple of bakers. All we need now is a candlestick maker!" grinned Stephen.

Open eight and a half years, mum and dad worked in his café for the first year, and now it’s booming with a second site in Keswick.

The Guinness and chocolate cake, orange and raspberry cake and cheese scone (yes, I snaffled the lot!) were wonderful!

Up the road is the Percy House Gallery: aesthetically beautiful in its 1390 building and still trading despite a horrific flood in 2009 when the Rivers Derwent and Cocker burst through the town as a raging torrent. It happened again in 2015.

Percy House Gallery

JB Banks Ironmongers - from another century!

...and a tool museum that will blow your mind

And, there are two other gems not to be ignored: a few doors down is JR Bank & Son Ltd, ironmongers since 1836. Simply step back in time and make sure you visit the museum at the back of the shop. Never seen anything like it. Amazing!

Fika - culinary magic

As is Fika Restaurant just across the road on Station Street. The food was genuinely magnificent but, just as good, was our hilarious Czech waiter, Jiri with his dark one liners. He was there helping out for the evening.

“I am in coffee grinding,” he told us, “business can be up and down. I’m just looking for a dealer to send heroin with the next consignment of beans then things will really improve!”

When serving the coffee: “Sorry my hand is shaking a little, I haven’t had alcohol today! It’s been tough. My grandad is 95 years old and he has just informed us that we will not be getting any inheritance because he is going to spend all his money on drugs so that he can die happy with no pain!"

Tears wiped from our eyes, it was time to move on down the coast.

We’d paid our respects to the Lake District’s uncrowned monarch, William Wordsworth, courtesy of the National Trust’s Wordsworth House and Garden on Main Street, read the equally fascinating history wall on Old Kings Arms Lane, and mourned the fact that Castlegate House Gallery was closed for the Bank Holiday: Workington and Whitehaven called.

Wordsworth House & Garden, Cockermouth

Wall to wall facts

Workington, as its name implies, is essentially a working-class town, but it still boasts the award-winning Carnegie Theatre and Arts Centre: you might also want to check out the Theatre Royal.

However, Whitehaven, with its beautiful port and historic 44-45 Irish Street, has more to offer including, on its outskirts, the Rosehill Theatre, the interior of which has been described as a ‘rose-red silk-lined jewel box. It is also a lovely town in which to simply meander!

This time our overnight stay was the beautiful Hundith Hill Hotel at Lorton Vale, Cockermouth, set in majestic grounds and a perfect, quiet base within easy reach of everything. Nothing was too much trouble.

Hundith Hill Hotel

Hundith hospitality!

The room was akin to a football pitch with a balcony that was requiring of an entire team and, at one time, I feared I had lost my wife (permanently) to the beautiful bathroom: a lovely place with glorious grounds for an evening stroll.

“Sit down, read the menu then place your order at the bar.” It was lunchtime in Whitehaven’s Howling Wolf Cafe at the Beacon Museum. What a jewel. Not only located on the harbourside, but the food was exceptional: I really didn’t expect the quality I got.

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• A 'Howling' Menu!
• The Howling Wolf Cafe, Whitehaven
• Harbourside dining
• Whitehaven's Rosehill Theatre

Racing on through Egremont where, we waved goodbye to the Lowes Court Gallery – another closure victim of the Bank Holiday – we did, briefly, take in the Florence Arts Centre, located at Florence Mine, once the last working deep iron ore mine in Europe, but now a fantastic hub for the arts.

The statue of the gurning man consumed his face as we passed, destined for Muncaster Castle’s Coachman’s Quarters, where we would spend the final part of our trip: I would soon be Lord of the Manor!

This is a self-catering option set in the former stabling area. The castle’s just minutes away and outside my window an owl from the adjacent sanctuary, where you can take in an amazing show each day, looked up as if to say, ‘got any food you could chuck over!’.

Again, lovely and quiet and in a nice setting with communal kitchen and lounge.

The Castle itself is brilliant with its Weapons Hall, falconry displays and stunning walks as well as the eternal possibility of lunch in the Stables Café.

“We need to be heading home soon,” said Mrs H on our final day.

We’d left the most southerly aspect of our trip to the end: Millom Heritage & Arts Centre and the home of poet Norman Nicholson at nearby 14 St George’s Terrace.

The former is in the old station platform building and the latter is owned by the Norman Nicholson Society, which has future plans to develop the property as a museum.

But, in truth, the ‘final’ highlight was our visit to the Sunset Beach Café at Silecroft. Absolutely breathtaking.

A purpose-built café with amazing food and views across the beach to die for. Eat then go for a walk on one of the finest beaches you’ll ever come across.

If ‘Culture Vulture’ had been the operative words for this trip, then we had not been disappointed.

The Western Lakes had delivered in spades and been a real eye opener with fascinating places to see and food to savour.

For now, this section of the National Park may be the road less travelled but I suggest you beat a path to Maryport, Cockermouth and beyond……before the rest of ‘em discover it!

For more information about visits to Carlisle, the Western Lake District and Coast visit www.inspiringitineraries.co.uk where you will find a host of ideas and suggestions for holidays and days out in the area.

FAST FACTS
www.visitlakedistrict.com

Food & Drink
Aspava Restaurant, 64 Main Street, Cockermouth, CA13 9LU. Contact: 01900 267330. www.aspavarestaurant.co.uk
Fika Restaurant, 7a Station Street, Cockermouth, CA13 9QW. Tel:07432 645813 www.fikacockermouth.co.uk
Moon & Sixpence,29 Main St, Cockermouth CA13 9LE. Tel:01900 829378 www.themoonandsixpence.co.uk
The Howling Wolf Cafe, Beacon Museum, Whitehaven, CA28 7LY. www.howling-wolf-bakery.sumupstore.com
Sunset Beach Cafe, Silecroft, nr Millom. Cumbria LA18 4NY. See Visit Lake District website above.

Hotels
The Melbreak Hotel - Winscales Road, Little Clifton, Workington, Cumbria, CA14 1XS. Tel:01900 61443. www.melbreakhotel.co.uk
Hundith Hill Hotel, Lorton Vale, Cockermouth, Cumbria, CA13 9TH. Tel:01900 822092. www.hundith.com
Coachman's Quarters, Munster Castle, Ravenglass, Cumbria. Tel: 01229 717614. www.penningtonhotels.com/coachmansquarters


Culture / Attractions
Shipping Brow Gallery 1 Senhouse St, Maryport CA15 6AB. www.shippingbrowgallery.co.uk
Wordsworth House & Garden, Main St, Cockermouth CA13 9RX. www.nationaltrust.org.uk
Percy House Gallery 38-42 Market Pl, Cockermouth CA13 9NG. www.percyhouse.co.uk
Castlegate House Gallery Castlegate, Cockermouth CA13 9HA. www.castlegatehouse.co.uk
Carnegie Theatre & Arts Centre, Finkle Street, Workington CA14 2BD. www.carnegietheatre.co.uk
Rosehill Theatre, Whitehaven CA28 6SE. www.rosehilltheatre.co.uk
Florence Arts Centre, Florence Mine, Egremont CA22 2NR. www.florenceartscentre.com
Lowes Court Gallery, 2 Main Street, Egremont CA22 2DJ.
Millom Heritage & Arts Centre, Station Buildings, Station Rd, Millom LA18 5AA. www.millomhac.co.uk/