Porto is often introduced through its namesake fortified wine, but that does the city a disservice. Spend a long weekend here and you quickly realise that food, rather than Port, is the heartbeat of northern Portugal. The city's steep granite streets are lined with neighbourhood taverns serving octopus rice, charcoal-grilled sardines and bowls of steaming seafood rice, while a growing collection of Michelin-starred restaurants has turned Porto into one of Europe's most exciting gastronomic destinations.

Yet there is something reassuringly unpretentious about eating here. You are just as likely to remember an afternoon spent with a perfectly poured glass of local red and a plate of salted cod fritters as you are a tasting menu overlooking the Douro. Even the city's signature dish, the famously indulgent francesinha, reflects Porto's refusal to apologise for doing things its own way. Layered with steak, ham and sausage beneath molten cheese and finished with a rich beer-based sauce, it is gloriously excessive, especially when paired with crisp fries and a cold lager.

For wine lovers, however, Porto is merely the gateway. Within a couple of hours lie some of Portugal's greatest vineyards, including those of the Dão, a region that quietly produces some of the country's most elegant and age-worthy red wines.

If France has Cabernet Sauvignon and Italy has Nebbiolo, Portugal has Touriga Nacional. Widely regarded as the country's finest red grape, it has become the benchmark against which Portuguese reds are judged. Originally associated with the Dão before becoming synonymous with the Douro's great Ports, it is now increasingly planted across the world, although nowhere does it quite capture the same balance of perfume, freshness and structure as it does on home soil.

Touriga Nacional is not an easy variety to grow. The bunches are small, yields are modest, and growers sacrifice quantity in pursuit of quality. The reward comes in the glass with a grape that combines fragrant aromas of violets, dark berries and wild herbs with dense tannins, bright acidity and remarkable ageing potential. Many of Portugal's greatest wines use it as the backbone of a blend, but perhaps its purest expression comes when it is allowed to stand alone.

That brings us to Quinta de Lemos Touriga Nacional 2013, a wine that demonstrates exactly why the variety enjoys such reverence.
Produced entirely from Touriga Nacional grown in the Silgueiros sub-region of the Dão, between 350 and 400 metres above sea level, the wine comes from vineyards managed under an integrated pest management programme where herbicides are prohibited and every bunch is harvested by hand into small crates. Fermentation takes place in a combination of wooden vats and stainless steel before the wine undergoes malolactic fermentation and spends 18 months maturing in French oak.

The result is a wine that has reached a magnificent point in its evolution. The deep ruby colour still carries flashes of violet at the rim, hinting at the concentration within. Aromatically, it is captivating, opening with blackberry compote, black cherry and damson before revealing layers of violets, toasted spice and liquorice. With time in the glass, come savoury notes of coffee grounds, tobacco leaf, cedar and warm leather, adding depth without ever overwhelming the fruit.

The depth of flavour is where Quinta de Lemos really impresses. Ripe black fruit sits alongside fresh acidity and beautifully judged tannins that have softened into a silky, almost cashmere-like texture. The French oak contributes subtle notes of toast and sweet spice rather than dominating proceedings, while an underlying mineral streak keeps everything focused and remarkably fresh. It is a wine of confidence rather than power, demonstrating that elegance can be just as compelling as intensity.

Its structure makes it an ideal partner for dry-aged beef, slow-cooked lamb or game, while mature hard cheeses bring out its savoury complexity. It is equally rewarding simply shared over a long dinner with friends, evolving steadily as the evening unfolds.

For anyone visiting Porto, Quinta de Lemos also serves as a reminder that Portugal's greatest wine experiences often lie beyond the famous Port lodges lining the Vila Nova de Gaia waterfront. The country's wine story is broader, deeper and considerably more exciting than many visitors expect.

After a weekend exploring Porto's restaurants, markets and wine bars, a glass of mature Touriga Nacional feels like the perfect conclusion. It captures much of what makes Portugal's food and wine culture so compelling: authenticity, generosity and quiet confidence. Quinta de Lemos Touriga Nacional 2013 is a superb ambassador for both the grape and the Dão, and a reminder that some of Europe's finest red wines continue to hide in plain sight.

Quinta de Lemos 2013 available online from £28 a bottle.

Our wine enthusiast Nathan lives in Leeds and runs the PR and marketing company Campfire PR.
https://campfirepr.com/