Top of the Klopps

One of the luxuries of being a football fan in the UK is the close proximity to some of the game’s finest amphitheatres. Allow yourself a couple of hours travel time and you can adorn the hallowed turf of Wembley, the San Siro or even the Santiago Bernabeu.

I have been lucky to visit all three but for far too long, one stadium in particular had eluded me. Renowned for its intimidating atmosphere and vibrant colour, Borussia Dortmund’s Signal Iduna Park had always been on my bucket list and I decided it was time to force the issue.

Getting hold of a ticket through official channels was surprisingly straightforward thanks to the ‘Adrenaline’ package available on the club website. Alongside a match ticket, this included two night’s accommodation in the heart of the city and a number of nice little touches such as a club scarf, money to spend in the club shop, a gift card for refreshments in the ground and a complementary stadium tour.

My visit saw a home side languishing in mid-table taking on joint pace-setters RB Leipzig. Following a rapid rise to the top table of German football, the visitors are extremely unpopular and the recent appointment of former Dortmund hero Jurgen Klopp in a leadership role for the Red Bull organisation added an extra bit of needle to the Saturday evening showcase fixture.

The game started slowly and it took almost half an hour before a rare foray forward by Leipzig broke the deadlock as Benjamin Sesko beat Alexander Meyer at his near post from a tight angle. This sprung the hosts into life and a couple of minutes later, Max Beier poked home his first goal for the club from close range to bring the sides level.

For large spells thereafter, the game descended into a scrappy affair with an unadventurous Leipzig offering little threat going forward. Roared on by the home support, Dortmund finally got their noses in front midway through the second half as Serhou Guirassy nodded in. Despite some nervy moments, Dortmund were able to see the game out for a much needed three points.

While the game won’t go down as a classic, the overall experience and the renowned Yellow Wall did not disappoint. I had heard so much about the raucous south stand support and watching them throughout was just as compelling as the standout moments on the pitch. The decibel level barely dropped – even when they went behind – and it strikes me as no coincidence that the pressure of performing for such a dedicated fanbase pushed Haaland, Bellingham and the many that went before them, to excellence.

As I reflect back on my trip, I am left with the overwhelming sense of contradiction. Dortmund is a city that is large enough to have great infrastructure and transport links, but small enough that football completely takes over. The club prides itself as one of the last non-commercial pariahs of the modern game yet sold the naming rights to their home many years ago. The stadium has one of the largest capacities in Europe but feels compact. The home fans are intimidating but welcoming.

Quite simply, it is these contrasting elements that make it so special and that is why you have to go.